Starting :
To begin in the simplest way :
Launch Cool Edit to familiarize yourself with this software
In Cool Edit click on "File", "New" et chose " 44100 Hz", "Stereo" and "16 bits" (The 32 bits is an advanced option). (If afterward you want to burn a CDR it is absolutely necessary for you to respect these settings.)
Place a "clean" vinyl disk on the record player. Play it. Start the recording by clicking the red button below on the left. An audio graph starts displaying on the main screen.
By adjusting the Windows "Audio control panel" you must hear the music. By setting the "LINE IN" control, adjust the volume so that the two red bar indicators (bottom of screen) do not exceed 0 db at the loudest of the music. Make sure that other controls are set to zero. Especially the microphone Volume control.
Example of a Windows Audio Control pannel:
Stop the recording by clicking the same red button you started the recording with.
A graph of the entire stereo audio signal is displayed on your Cool Edit's main screen.
This music can be then recorded on your hard disk in " Windows PCM ( .Wav ) " file using :
- File
- Save as (give a name)
At this moment when you should get acquainted with Cool Edit.
Train yourself to listen, to " zoom ", to "select", to "copy" etc. as with any other software.
(To "zoom" and move about on the graph, use the yellow buttons at the bottom of the screen.)
( Don't forget that you can also "zoom" in and out with the mouse wheel.)
Warning !!!
If, when you listen to your wav file and you hear funny noises that are not present on the LP, you may be overloading your processor while you are recording with Cool Edit. This depends on your equipement and eventual software running in the background. As for us, if we record with a live DSL USB Internet connection we may have plops and "warblings". Closing this Internet connection makes every thing OK.
RESTORING the File.
1) Removing hum.
Unless having a equipment of great quality there is almost always a small "hum" 50 Hz and 100 Hz due to the imperfections in the system of the electronic filtering, or to the various electromagnetic inductions or also to a bad earthing in the home electricity circuit. (60 and 120 Hz in the USA)
This filter exists already prepared in Cool Edit.
Use :
- Transform
- Filters
- FFT
Chose "50Hz + 100Hz Notch" et apply it to the whole recording. (60 Hz + 120 Hz Notch in the USA)
If in your music, you are certain not to have very low frequencies ( 16 Hz) (of the kind found in certain classic organ pieces), you can build, using the filter " 50Hz + 100Hz Notch " a filter which eliminates all the frequencies less than 21Hz. Name this filter such as " 50Hz + 100Hz Notch + HighPass 21Hz ".
The almost systematic use of this filter will eliminate hum and parasite signals inducted by the mecanical features of the turn table. At the end you will find that the sound is purer and that the music "breathes" better.
In this selected part you can see that there is an elimination of a 8 Hz parasite signal.
2) Dividing one side of a recorded vinyl disk.
If this side consists of one specific piece, (like classic music or a concert), you may "Normalize" the whole side in one go. Else you may latter "Normalize" each piece individually.
(See the meaning of the word 'Normalize" further down.)
Generally the recorded side consists of several pieces or songs. It will be necessary to separate them in individual files. By manipulating the graph with your mouse and by using the options of zoom and location, select the concerned piece. It is better to begin to the left.
Record this selection and give it a name.
- File
- Save selection (give a name)
Then eliminate this selection by :
- Edit
- Cut
You will left be with the graph of your recorded side less the first song. Proceed identically with the other pieces until you have only one single piece constituting your graph. Record this one directly by :
- File
- Save as (give a name)
We have just cut up the recorded side into several individual files, each one being the recorded data of each piece.
But such a division is crude. We will have to eliminate the useless blanks at tha beginning and at the end of each song.
Two cases can appear:
a) Songs or individual pieces.
Call back every individual files by :
- File
- Open
Select the blank at the beginning of the file.
Remove it by : Edit then Cut.
Select the blank at the end of the file.
Remove it by : Edit then Cut.
Save the file by :
- File
- Save
b) Concert "LIVE"
Here we have continual music with no gaps between pieces or songs.
Call back the first song of the recorded side by :
- File
- Open
Select the blank at the beginning of the file.
Remove it by : Edit then Cut.
Save this first piece by :
- File
- Save
Call back the last song of the recorded side by :
- File
- Open
Select the blank at the end of the file.
Eliminate it by : Edit then Cut.
Save this last piece by :
- File
- Save
Leave the other pieces of the side unchanged.
Such a division is not still completed.
Even if the sound is of good quality you should not burn your CDR yet. You would probably hear a "TIC" at the beginning and at the end of every piece. This corresponds to the fact that you could have a steep ascent of the signal at the beginning of every piece; and a steep descent at the end of every piece. You can correct every file by opening them and by applying a gradual ascent and descent at the beginning and at the end. The duration of this modification should be established only over the 5 milliseconds of the beginning and of the end. This transition of 5 milliseconds will not be heard, even on an start up of drums.
At first, "zoom" and select the first 5 milliseconds of the piece
One sees at the beginning of the graph a sudden ascent which it will be necessary to eliminate.
Then by :
Transform
Amplitude
Amplify
choose the "Fade" tab
Then Check
"Linear Fades"
"Lock Left/Right"
Then
Initial Amplification 0 %
Final Amplification 100 %
OK
The beginning "TIC" has disappeared.
Then, select the last 5 milliseconds of the piece
Then by :
Transform
Amplitude
Amplify
choose the "Fade" tab
Then Check
"Linear Fades"
"Lock Left/Right"
Then
Initial Amplification 100 %
Final Amplification 0 %
OK
3) Removing Clicks
A "Click" is the result of a scratch on the vinyl, or a speck of dust, or just the bad quality of the vinyl used. It corresponds to a steep "ascent" or "descent" of the analogical signal. You can track them down by listening of your digital recording and " zooming" on them to observe them and remove or correct them.
Here are some examples. (A click is not necessarily at the same time on both channels.)
In " Cool Edit 2000 " there are three ways to correct or remove " clicks ":
1) Totally manual on a "click".
2) Semi-manuel on a "click".
3) Automatic on almost all the "clicks".
1) Totally manual on a "click".
This is the most tedious way. You need a good wrist for this. Eveything is done by moving the mouse on each bad digital sample.
You have to "zoom" deeply on the "click" to see the individual samples which are represented as dots.
When the cursor goes over a sample it transforms itself into a little hand. You can then drag the sample to where you think it should be.
Example :
We think that this method should be avoided and used only in extreme difficult cases when quality is essential.
2) Semi-manual on a "click".
You have to "zoom" on the "click" and select around it a space which can be as wide as 113 milliseconds.
(Depending on the nature of the "click" you can, of course, select a narrower space. Removal time will be faster.)
Then by :
Transform
Noise Reduction
Click/Pop Eliminator
Choose "Fill Single Click Now"
If are successively removing "clicks" in this way you can reiterate this command by using the F3 key of your keyboard. This
is a very appreciable short-cut. (The F3 key remembers your last command.)
EXAMPLE :
3) Automatic.
We will still use the "Click/Pop/Crackle Eliminator" panel.
The settings are rather complex. The method that I preconize is the following. But feel free to adapt it and make it better.
You must be aware that when you automatically remove "clicks", nothing is totally perfect. One could in fact eliminate all "clicks" but to the detriment of the sound of the music. One can also leave a few "noises" but with a good sounding music. Reading Cool Edit's HELP FILE can make things clearer.
In current practice you will have vinyl disks of four categories:
1) Of good quality.
2) Of average quality.
3) Of bad quality.
4) Of very bad quality
(We are not mentionning 'Mint Quality".)
To begin you need to ajust the 'Click/Pop/Crackle Eliminator" panel in ways corresponding to these four categories.
GOOD QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 14
Window Discrimination = 30
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 4 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of "GOOD"
AVERAGE QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 14
Window Discrimination = 30
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 8 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of "AVERAGE"
BAD QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 14
Window Discrimination = 20
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 4 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of "BAD"
VERY BAD QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 12
Window Discrimination = 20
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 8 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of"VERY BAD"
These four settings should cover 70 % of your needs. You will only need to select a setting depending of the quality of your LP record.
These settings should not interfere to much with the sound quality of the music. Other values are possible but at a risk of the modifing of the sound of trumpets, and violins, and also by smoothing percussions....
IMPLEMENTATION :
Just click on "Auto Find All Levels". Cool Edit will do its calculus on all the recording or the selected section. When he has finished click on "Ok" to start cleaning up the "clicks".
4) Other considerations.
It is obvious that these recomendations won't be satisfactory in every case. You will have to experiment to master all the subtilities of the various adjustments. But there a golden rule that always applies :
ALWAYS LISTEN, AND KEEP LISTENING.
After a automatic cleaning, you must NOT hesitate do polish up the job by doing a semi- manual removal on a few imperfections that might have been overlooked by the automatic system.
It is sometimes difficult to pin-point a "click" in complex signal. All you have to do is to choose " View "then "Spectral View". You will be presented with a spectral graph of the music. You will find the "click" under the shape of a vertical line. This visual help can be very efficient.
If you are in doubt, just punctually listen to the signal as represented on the screen.That will tell you if it is really a "click" or music.
One can also select a space around the "click" and remove it as before with " Fill Single Click Now ".
Example
4) Correcting frequency response.
If your equipment is perfect, you do not need any correction. If not, you can catch up with certain imperfections in frequency response. The ideal is to have a test laboratory vinyl disk which comprises recordings of pure frequencies, warbled frequencies or bandes of white noise cut up in octaves... You can then " calibrate " your read head unit, pre-amplifier, and sound card. If the final response is not linear you can then determine filters which will restore this linearity. If you do not have such a disc, do it by ear, or... as you feel it. The advantage of such filters, which calculate numerically, is that they do not bring any phase distorsion on the frequencies as so do the traditional analog filters. (Baxendal for example).
In our case, we use very slight corrections.
These examples relate to only our equipment and our auditive taste.
a ) For certain old monophonic records.
b ) For certain classical recordings.
One can note that here, these corrections are very light.
The first correction is established by :
- Transform
- Filters
- FFT
The second correction is established by :
- Transform
- Filters
- Quick Filter
You can, of course, have different corrections for each piece in your compilation.
5) Normalizing
Normalizing consists of locating in the file, the highest sample and increasing its value to 99 or 100% of the possible maximum. In the same time, it also increases the values of all the other samples by the same multiplying factor. The result is as if you had increased general volume to the maximum, without reaching saturation. When you will burn your CDR, the level of the music and especially then signal to noise figure will be at the optimum. At playback, if you had a weak signal, you would have to increase the analog volume of your Hi-Fi restitution, increasing at the same time any eventual hum or electronic noise.
On the other hand, in classical music, it will be necessary to take care to respect balance.
For example, you are making a compilation, and a thundering orchestral "Finale" is followed by a small harpsichord solo. Normalize the orchestra file to 100 % and the harpsichord file to 70%.
Normalize by :
Par le menu :
- Transform
- Amplitude
- Normalize
(Be careful not to normalize a selection, but to normalize all the piece or all the recording.)
6) Organising
Now you have to organise your files in a directory and burn your CDR.
Before the actual burning, don't forget a "pregap" of zero seconds for your "LIVE" songs (Continuous music) and a "pregap" of one or two seconds for individual pieces.
NOTE :
Very often the indications found on the record jackets concerning the time length of the music is erroneous.
The real time is extended by the blanks preceding AND following each song or piece.
The fact of removing these blanks will often give you the possibility to place two 33 LPs on one CDR of 700 Mbytes.( That is to say 80 minutes or even more than 81 minutes and 30 seconds if your burner and software knows about "Overburning" ).
To begin in the simplest way :
Launch Cool Edit to familiarize yourself with this software
In Cool Edit click on "File", "New" et chose " 44100 Hz", "Stereo" and "16 bits" (The 32 bits is an advanced option). (If afterward you want to burn a CDR it is absolutely necessary for you to respect these settings.)
Place a "clean" vinyl disk on the record player. Play it. Start the recording by clicking the red button below on the left. An audio graph starts displaying on the main screen.
By adjusting the Windows "Audio control panel" you must hear the music. By setting the "LINE IN" control, adjust the volume so that the two red bar indicators (bottom of screen) do not exceed 0 db at the loudest of the music. Make sure that other controls are set to zero. Especially the microphone Volume control.
Example of a Windows Audio Control pannel:
Stop the recording by clicking the same red button you started the recording with.
A graph of the entire stereo audio signal is displayed on your Cool Edit's main screen.
This music can be then recorded on your hard disk in " Windows PCM ( .Wav ) " file using :
- File
- Save as (give a name)
At this moment when you should get acquainted with Cool Edit.
Train yourself to listen, to " zoom ", to "select", to "copy" etc. as with any other software.
(To "zoom" and move about on the graph, use the yellow buttons at the bottom of the screen.)
( Don't forget that you can also "zoom" in and out with the mouse wheel.)
Warning !!!
If, when you listen to your wav file and you hear funny noises that are not present on the LP, you may be overloading your processor while you are recording with Cool Edit. This depends on your equipement and eventual software running in the background. As for us, if we record with a live DSL USB Internet connection we may have plops and "warblings". Closing this Internet connection makes every thing OK.
RESTORING the File.
1) Removing hum.
Unless having a equipment of great quality there is almost always a small "hum" 50 Hz and 100 Hz due to the imperfections in the system of the electronic filtering, or to the various electromagnetic inductions or also to a bad earthing in the home electricity circuit. (60 and 120 Hz in the USA)
This filter exists already prepared in Cool Edit.
Use :
- Transform
- Filters
- FFT
Chose "50Hz + 100Hz Notch" et apply it to the whole recording. (60 Hz + 120 Hz Notch in the USA)
If in your music, you are certain not to have very low frequencies ( 16 Hz) (of the kind found in certain classic organ pieces), you can build, using the filter " 50Hz + 100Hz Notch " a filter which eliminates all the frequencies less than 21Hz. Name this filter such as " 50Hz + 100Hz Notch + HighPass 21Hz ".
The almost systematic use of this filter will eliminate hum and parasite signals inducted by the mecanical features of the turn table. At the end you will find that the sound is purer and that the music "breathes" better.
2) Dividing one side of a recorded vinyl disk.
If this side consists of one specific piece, (like classic music or a concert), you may "Normalize" the whole side in one go. Else you may latter "Normalize" each piece individually.
(See the meaning of the word 'Normalize" further down.)
Generally the recorded side consists of several pieces or songs. It will be necessary to separate them in individual files. By manipulating the graph with your mouse and by using the options of zoom and location, select the concerned piece. It is better to begin to the left.
Record this selection and give it a name.
- File
- Save selection (give a name)
Then eliminate this selection by :
- Edit
- Cut
You will left be with the graph of your recorded side less the first song. Proceed identically with the other pieces until you have only one single piece constituting your graph. Record this one directly by :
- File
- Save as (give a name)
We have just cut up the recorded side into several individual files, each one being the recorded data of each piece.
But such a division is crude. We will have to eliminate the useless blanks at tha beginning and at the end of each song.
Two cases can appear:
a) Songs or individual pieces.
Call back every individual files by :
- File
- Open
Select the blank at the beginning of the file.
Remove it by : Edit then Cut.
Select the blank at the end of the file.
Remove it by : Edit then Cut.
Save the file by :
- File
- Save
b) Concert "LIVE"
Here we have continual music with no gaps between pieces or songs.
Call back the first song of the recorded side by :
- File
- Open
Select the blank at the beginning of the file.
Remove it by : Edit then Cut.
Save this first piece by :
- File
- Save
Call back the last song of the recorded side by :
- File
- Open
Select the blank at the end of the file.
Eliminate it by : Edit then Cut.
Save this last piece by :
- File
- Save
Leave the other pieces of the side unchanged.
Such a division is not still completed.
Even if the sound is of good quality you should not burn your CDR yet. You would probably hear a "TIC" at the beginning and at the end of every piece. This corresponds to the fact that you could have a steep ascent of the signal at the beginning of every piece; and a steep descent at the end of every piece. You can correct every file by opening them and by applying a gradual ascent and descent at the beginning and at the end. The duration of this modification should be established only over the 5 milliseconds of the beginning and of the end. This transition of 5 milliseconds will not be heard, even on an start up of drums.
At first, "zoom" and select the first 5 milliseconds of the piece
One sees at the beginning of the graph a sudden ascent which it will be necessary to eliminate.
Then by :
Transform
Amplitude
Amplify
choose the "Fade" tab
Then Check
"Linear Fades"
"Lock Left/Right"
Then
Initial Amplification 0 %
Final Amplification 100 %
OK
The beginning "TIC" has disappeared.
Then, select the last 5 milliseconds of the piece
Then by :
Transform
Amplitude
Amplify
choose the "Fade" tab
Then Check
"Linear Fades"
"Lock Left/Right"
Then
Initial Amplification 100 %
Final Amplification 0 %
OK
3) Removing Clicks
A "Click" is the result of a scratch on the vinyl, or a speck of dust, or just the bad quality of the vinyl used. It corresponds to a steep "ascent" or "descent" of the analogical signal. You can track them down by listening of your digital recording and " zooming" on them to observe them and remove or correct them.
Here are some examples. (A click is not necessarily at the same time on both channels.)
In " Cool Edit 2000 " there are three ways to correct or remove " clicks ":
1) Totally manual on a "click".
2) Semi-manuel on a "click".
3) Automatic on almost all the "clicks".
1) Totally manual on a "click".
This is the most tedious way. You need a good wrist for this. Eveything is done by moving the mouse on each bad digital sample.
You have to "zoom" deeply on the "click" to see the individual samples which are represented as dots.
When the cursor goes over a sample it transforms itself into a little hand. You can then drag the sample to where you think it should be.
Example :
We think that this method should be avoided and used only in extreme difficult cases when quality is essential.
2) Semi-manual on a "click".
You have to "zoom" on the "click" and select around it a space which can be as wide as 113 milliseconds.
(Depending on the nature of the "click" you can, of course, select a narrower space. Removal time will be faster.)
Then by :
Noise Reduction
Click/Pop Eliminator
Choose "Fill Single Click Now"
EXAMPLE :
| Before | After |
3) Automatic.
We will still use the "Click/Pop/Crackle Eliminator" panel.
The settings are rather complex. The method that I preconize is the following. But feel free to adapt it and make it better.
You must be aware that when you automatically remove "clicks", nothing is totally perfect. One could in fact eliminate all "clicks" but to the detriment of the sound of the music. One can also leave a few "noises" but with a good sounding music. Reading Cool Edit's HELP FILE can make things clearer.
In current practice you will have vinyl disks of four categories:
1) Of good quality.
2) Of average quality.
3) Of bad quality.
4) Of very bad quality
(We are not mentionning 'Mint Quality".)
To begin you need to ajust the 'Click/Pop/Crackle Eliminator" panel in ways corresponding to these four categories.
GOOD QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 14
Window Discrimination = 30
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 4 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of "GOOD"
AVERAGE QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 14
Window Discrimination = 30
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 8 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of "AVERAGE"
BAD QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 14
Window Discrimination = 20
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 4 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of "BAD"
VERY BAD QUALITY :
Window Sensitivity = 12
Window Discrimination = 20
Window Detect Big Pops = 60 Check
Window Multiple Passes = 8 Check
Window Pop Oversamples = 12
Window Run Size = 10
Check Second Level Verification
Check FFT Size Auto
Uncheck Pulse Size Verification
Uncheck Link Channels
Uncheck Smooth Light Crackle
Click on "Add" and save these settings under the name of"VERY BAD"
These four settings should cover 70 % of your needs. You will only need to select a setting depending of the quality of your LP record.
These settings should not interfere to much with the sound quality of the music. Other values are possible but at a risk of the modifing of the sound of trumpets, and violins, and also by smoothing percussions....
IMPLEMENTATION :
Just click on "Auto Find All Levels". Cool Edit will do its calculus on all the recording or the selected section. When he has finished click on "Ok" to start cleaning up the "clicks".
4) Other considerations.
It is obvious that these recomendations won't be satisfactory in every case. You will have to experiment to master all the subtilities of the various adjustments. But there a golden rule that always applies :
After a automatic cleaning, you must NOT hesitate do polish up the job by doing a semi- manual removal on a few imperfections that might have been overlooked by the automatic system.
It is sometimes difficult to pin-point a "click" in complex signal. All you have to do is to choose " View "then "Spectral View". You will be presented with a spectral graph of the music. You will find the "click" under the shape of a vertical line. This visual help can be very efficient.
If you are in doubt, just punctually listen to the signal as represented on the screen.That will tell you if it is really a "click" or music.
One can also select a space around the "click" and remove it as before with " Fill Single Click Now ".
4) Correcting frequency response.
If your equipment is perfect, you do not need any correction. If not, you can catch up with certain imperfections in frequency response. The ideal is to have a test laboratory vinyl disk which comprises recordings of pure frequencies, warbled frequencies or bandes of white noise cut up in octaves... You can then " calibrate " your read head unit, pre-amplifier, and sound card. If the final response is not linear you can then determine filters which will restore this linearity. If you do not have such a disc, do it by ear, or... as you feel it. The advantage of such filters, which calculate numerically, is that they do not bring any phase distorsion on the frequencies as so do the traditional analog filters. (Baxendal for example).
In our case, we use very slight corrections.
These examples relate to only our equipment and our auditive taste.
a ) For certain old monophonic records.
b ) For certain classical recordings.
One can note that here, these corrections are very light.
The first correction is established by :
- Transform
- Filters
- FFT
The second correction is established by :
- Transform
- Filters
- Quick Filter
You can, of course, have different corrections for each piece in your compilation.
5) Normalizing
Normalizing consists of locating in the file, the highest sample and increasing its value to 99 or 100% of the possible maximum. In the same time, it also increases the values of all the other samples by the same multiplying factor. The result is as if you had increased general volume to the maximum, without reaching saturation. When you will burn your CDR, the level of the music and especially then signal to noise figure will be at the optimum. At playback, if you had a weak signal, you would have to increase the analog volume of your Hi-Fi restitution, increasing at the same time any eventual hum or electronic noise.
On the other hand, in classical music, it will be necessary to take care to respect balance.
For example, you are making a compilation, and a thundering orchestral "Finale" is followed by a small harpsichord solo. Normalize the orchestra file to 100 % and the harpsichord file to 70%.
Normalize by :
Par le menu :
- Transform
- Amplitude
- Normalize
(Be careful not to normalize a selection, but to normalize all the piece or all the recording.)
6) Organising
Now you have to organise your files in a directory and burn your CDR.
Before the actual burning, don't forget a "pregap" of zero seconds for your "LIVE" songs (Continuous music) and a "pregap" of one or two seconds for individual pieces.
NOTE :
Very often the indications found on the record jackets concerning the time length of the music is erroneous.
The real time is extended by the blanks preceding AND following each song or piece.
The fact of removing these blanks will often give you the possibility to place two 33 LPs on one CDR of 700 Mbytes.( That is to say 80 minutes or even more than 81 minutes and 30 seconds if your burner and software knows about "Overburning" ).
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