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A simple die-cut paper sleeve project for your new CDs

A handmade sleeve gives a newly recorded CD a finished look without adding much bulk. It is especially useful for a transfer from vinyl, a home compilation, or an archive disc that deserves artwork of its own. The finished cover should identify the recording, protect the jewel case from scratches, and still allow the CD to be removed easily.

This project makes a wrap for a standard CD jewel case. A broad thumb notch is cut into the front edge so the case can be gripped and slid out, while card stock keeps the shape crisp. The same template can be cut by hand with a craft knife or sent to an electronic cutter, so the method suits a quiet weekend project as well as a batch of recordings.

Plan the fit around the jewel case

Begin by checking the case rather than trusting a generic template. A conventional jewel case measures about 142 mm high, 125 mm wide and 10 mm deep. Australian craft and office suppliers use metric sizing, so these measurements fit naturally into an A4 layout. If your case is a slim case, a jewel box or a larger hinged box, adjust the width and depth before cutting.

For this wrap, reserve 125 mm for the back, 12 mm for the spine, 125 mm for the front and 15 mm for an inside flap. The flat sheet is therefore 277 mm across and 144 mm high, including 2 mm of trimming allowance. Mark score lines at 125 mm, 137 mm and 262 mm. An A4 sheet leaves enough space around the pattern for a steady knife stroke.

Make a quick paper mock-up before committing to card. Wrap it around an empty jewel case and check that the front lies flat, the flap reaches the inside back and the case can still pass through the open top. Adjust the panel widths by a millimetre or two if needed. Small corrections now prevent a tight sleeve or a flap that opens by itself later.

Choose card and tools for the job

Choose matte card in the 250–300 gsm range. Heavier card gives a premium finish but needs more space around the spine, while lighter stock may crease easily. A4 card is sold by Australian shops such as Officeworks, and Bunnings is a handy source for cutting mats and craft knives. Buy one sheet for the wrap and keep a second for a test or matching back panel.

The basic tool set is simple: a self-healing cutting mat, a long steel rule, a retractable craft knife, a bone folder, white PVA glue and low-tack tape. A pencil is safer than pressing hard enough to score the card by mistake. A pair of sharp scissors can finish the rounded ends of the notch, and a ruler with a cork back can replace a separate paperweight.

Strong magnets may be offered as convenient clamps, but they deserve caution around phones and cards with magnetic strips. Before putting a neodymium magnet beside your phone, read about damage to cell phones, then choose a non-magnetic weight instead. Keep the magnet away from cutting blades, rulers with ferrous edges and any magnetic storage tray used for the finished discs.

Cut the template and create the notch

Print the pattern at 100 per cent on ordinary A4 paper, then confirm the scale using a marked 50 mm reference line. A printer that shrinks the page will ruin the fit. Tape the pattern face down to the reverse of the card with low-tack tape, trace the panel edges lightly and remove the sheet. Working from the back keeps pencil marks and hand marks away from the artwork.

Cut the outside edge first with a steel rule, using several light passes rather than one heavy cut. Replace the blade when it starts to drag. Mark a 35 mm-wide, 10 mm-deep opening at the centre of the front panel for the thumb notch. Cut the two straight sides with the knife, then shape the curve in short strokes against the mat.

An electronic cutter can handle the same outline, provided its software uses millimetres and the blade offset is set correctly. Export a closed vector path rather than a low-resolution image, and test a scrap strip first. Before opening a cutter to inspect a failed indicator, unplug it; test a diode explains a basic check for some simple lamps, while complex machines are safer left to a service technician.

Fold and glue a neat outer wrap

Crease the three panel folds before adding glue. Place the scored card over a flat surface and run the bone folder firmly along each line without cutting through the coating. The spine and flap folds should be crisp because they form the case's corners. Keep the pressure even, as a crushed groove can open along the finished fold when the sleeve is handled repeatedly.

Wrap the card around an empty jewel case to locate the overlap, then unfold it and mark the meeting point. Apply a thin film of PVA to the inside of the spine and the glue flap. Bring the front around the case, tuck the flap against the back and burnish from the centre outwards. Glue should catch the card without creating a hard ridge around the disc.

Allow at least 30 minutes under a flat weight before handling the sleeve. Humid weather on the Australian coast can slow drying, so give the PVA extra time and leave the case open rather than sealing moisture inside. Wipe any squeeze-out with a clean, dry cloth while it is still slightly damp, and check that the top notch has not been covered with adhesive.

Print artwork and care for the disc

Artwork works best when it is planned before assembly. Print on the same matte stock, leave a 3 mm quiet border, and avoid heavy solvent-based ink that can soften near PVA. A simple front can show the title, artist, recording date and catalogue number. For a professional finish, a local printer can handle the card while you cut and fold the wrap yourself.

If the CD was made from a cassette transfer, clean the source path first. Dust on the heads and a tired belt can add hiss or dropouts that cannot be repaired with paper or software. The practical steps in cleaning cassette decks are worth following before the recording session, and the resulting sleeve can note the source and transfer date for future reference.

Use a polypropylene or archival-quality inner sleeve for the jewel case; rigid PVC can yellow and cling to discs in warm conditions. Australian sunlight is strong, so store the finished package away from unsheltered windows and car dashboards. Independent record shops around Melbourne's Brunswick and Sydney's Newtown commonly present CDs in jewel cases, so this outer wrap adds a personal layer without changing the standard case.

Test the sleeve and prepare it for use

Slide the finished jewel case into the wrap and test the action several times. It should move upward with light finger pressure, and the notch should provide a secure grip without forcing the card outwards. Watch for bowing at the spine, a loose flap or a lower edge that scrapes the desk. A sleeve that feels snug is usually better than one with visible gaps.

Carry the package in a rigid mailer if it is being posted or taken to a local swap. Card protects against scratches but not crushing, so add a padded layer around the jewel case and keep the notch clear of packing tape. For storage, stand the sleeve upright in a cool cupboard rather than stacking it where the spine carries the full load.

Save the printed pattern and a scrap test with the chosen card weight. Small changes to the notch or glue flap can then be made without redrawing the whole layout. Record the final dimensions on the back of the template, including the card brand, printer setting and glue used. That note turns a single handmade sleeve into a repeatable project for an entire recording session.


Choose one recently made CD, gather a blank jewel case and cut the pattern at full size today. Print the label, glue the wrap and test the slide before repeating the process for the rest of the session. The result is a sturdy, personal package ready for your shelf, a gift or a trip to a local record shop.

A dark, atmospheric portrait-style still-life suggesting a thoughtful older gentleman's study — worn leather, handwritten notes, and soft amber light against deep shadow.

About Allen

Allen is a retired French national who spent his career at the Laboratoire Régional des Ponts et Chaussées de Bordeaux, where he performed measurements on concrete and metal structures — building transducers, electronics interfaces, and the software to run them.

Now retired, he fills his days with fishing, listening to music, tinkering with HI-FI equipment, archery, computing, and — when possible — a well-earned siesta. He also enjoys transferring his vinyl record collection to CD.

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